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Thread: [How-to] add a shield to your older generation motion m1400

  1. #41

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    OK I've installed the 3 sheet shield, replacing the original full back shield from the first post. I'll edit this post when I know if this shield has fixed the jumping cursor! Fingers crossed!

    note to self: Always check all the ribbon cables BEFORE closing up the tablet! Doh!
    We don't stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing.
    Desktop: AMD Phenom II X4 3.20GHz, 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 RAM, 500W Power Supply, Sapphire ATI Radeon HD 5830, DVD-RW Drive, 32" LCD! Ubuntu 11.04 & Windows 7 Professional.
    Current tablet: HP Touchpad 32gb WiFi
    Last tablet: Motion M1400, 1.1ghz centrino, 632MB Ram, 16GB USB pendrive as HDD!, DIY Wacom Shield
    Read about my experiences with linux at www.insearchoftux.blogspot.com

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    , Rochester, New York, USA.
    Posts
    1,128

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlanM1400 View Post
    Maximum allowed fixed virtual memory on the M 1400 with 2go RAM installed seems to be 4 go. Anyone know why?

    Only possible reason could be if FAT32 formatted 4GB file size limitation (NTFS has no limit).

  3. #43

    Default

    Well I've tested it for a week of heavy use as I'm writing a ton of essays at the moment and I use the tablet for gathering & reading pdfs and writing notes. I haven't had a single incident of the jumping cursor of death destruction and demonic duck possession. Looks like the metal strip which was covered by the second shield attempt is the culprit. When I get a chance I'll edit the first post to link to the final fix. Could a mod sticky this perhaps? Thanks
    We don't stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing.
    Desktop: AMD Phenom II X4 3.20GHz, 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 RAM, 500W Power Supply, Sapphire ATI Radeon HD 5830, DVD-RW Drive, 32" LCD! Ubuntu 11.04 & Windows 7 Professional.
    Current tablet: HP Touchpad 32gb WiFi
    Last tablet: Motion M1400, 1.1ghz centrino, 632MB Ram, 16GB USB pendrive as HDD!, DIY Wacom Shield
    Read about my experiences with linux at www.insearchoftux.blogspot.com

  4. #44

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    Nice. My shield has held up as well. This one's in the bag.

    I'm looking forward to the final write up.

  5. #45

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    As you say, I think we might have solved this one. The write up will be a couple of days as I'm still knee deep in essays!

    *8 months later*

    Now I'm going to write up the first post. Those essays took longer than I thought! LOL :-/
    Last edited by Grindboy; 12-05-2010 at 12:21 PM.
    We don't stop playing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop playing.
    Desktop: AMD Phenom II X4 3.20GHz, 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 RAM, 500W Power Supply, Sapphire ATI Radeon HD 5830, DVD-RW Drive, 32" LCD! Ubuntu 11.04 & Windows 7 Professional.
    Current tablet: HP Touchpad 32gb WiFi
    Last tablet: Motion M1400, 1.1ghz centrino, 632MB Ram, 16GB USB pendrive as HDD!, DIY Wacom Shield
    Read about my experiences with linux at www.insearchoftux.blogspot.com

  6. #46

    Default

    I read through the thread and didn't see a reference to making a solid electrical connection.

    It's possible that a single or multi-ply aluminum shield would attenuate Electro-Magnetic Interference some, hence the partial improvement, but for full effect, every shield needs a 'drain', which is to say they need to be grounded. The EMI gets routed to ground instead of possibly passing through.

    I work in industrial controls, and have to use shielded wire and cabling all the time. Usually, you take one side of the foil shield in the cable and tie it to something such as the metal case of the connector on one end of the cable, which is itself grounded out when plugged into a device. Otherwise, this shield must have a ground wire soldered onto it and the other end of the wire is tied to a grounding terminal. Usually, specifications state that only one end of a cable shield is to be grounded. Then EMI that might land on defenseless wires in the cable and cause noise in my signal is instead caught by the shield and the energy is sent to electron heaven, so to speak.

    So by laminating the shield, the shield is insulated from any of the frame metal (and any exposed electrical connections, which is a good thing), but it basically temporarily absorbs some of the energy and then lets most of it pass through, thus the EMI isn't totally eliminated, or at least it isn't reduced enough to eliminate the problem.

    More than likely, just leaving some portion of the foil shield naked so that it contacts some part of the metal frame would be good enough, since I would be shocked if the metal frame wasn't tied to ground. (Ha, ha, unintentional grounding pun, FTW). But this connection needs to be solid/constant, so either you want re-assembly to keep this contact in place somehow, or else you need to find somewhere where there is some assembly screw in the frame that you could use to create this solid connection by sandwiching the foil between the screw-head and the frame.

    To make it even better, you actually want a low-resistance connection. Since the frame is possibly zinc-plated steel or something that might not be nearly as conductive as copper or silver, or even aluminum, you would be better off finding a true grounding point somewhere to which you would connect the shield, soldering an insulated wire to your shield if necessary to reach the grounding point safely.

    If you see a shiny metal casing around the back-side of a connector, this is shielding, and it should be tied on the circuit board to ground. If your foil can be solidly connected to this shield, then you should be good. The best would be to solder an insulated wire from your shield to the place on the circuit board where that shield connects.

    The more powerful the EMI is, the more careful you have to be about making a strong ground connection, but it doesn't sound like this is really very bad. Almost any solid, constant electrical connection to grounded metal will probably work.
    - Jay

  7. #47
    norcimo1400 Guest

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    GrindBoy,

    The reason it failed because, you need to ground the foil. Solder a piece of wire to aluminum (hard to do but can be done), the other end attach it to any grounding post or chassis screw that its also grounded with the electronics.

    norcimo1400

    soon to be a owner.

    Currently I have a TC1100 with windows 7 ultimate, everything working, no full screen video accelaration, but everything works like a charm.

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